Thursday, September 29, 2011

The Muffin Man

If you go to your local coffee shop and order a muffin, you'll more than likely get a giant, sugary confection that closely resembles a cupcake without any frosting.  There is (or at least should be) a big difference between a muffin and a cupcake though.  A cupcake should be sweeter and lighter than a muffin.  Muffins are more dense, less sweet, and chewier.

The method for making the two are completely different as well.  A muffin is really a quickbread.  A cupcake is a cake that long, long ago would've been baked in an earthenware mug on the side of the hearth.

Anyway, the other night we had chocolate chip muffins.

The muffin method involves mixing all of your dry ingredients in one bowl and all of the wet ingredients in another.

For the dry goods  in our muffins, we mix All purpose flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt.

For the wet goods, we have Sugar, oil, egg, egg yolk and yogurt.

When I mix the wet goods, I start with the egg and egg yolk.  I whisk them together until everything is homogenous, then I whisk in the sugar to form a paste.  Then the oil gets drizzled in and then finally the yogurt.  When all is said and done, everything is nicely incorporated and evenly distributed.  Whisking the eggs first gives us plenty of emulsifiers.

Next, as with our pancakes earlier, we add the wet ingredients to the dry.  Then our mix-ins...in this case the chocolate chips go for a dip.

Mix everything just to combine.  Don't overwork the flour or you'll produce excess gluten and the muffins will be way too tough and chewy.  Some lumps are OK.  They'll bake out.

Using a disher to fill the pan will ensure that we get even amounts of batter in each cup.  This means that all of the muffins will cook evenly.  No tiny burnt muffins or big, uncooked muffins to be had!

As a test, I sprinkled just a bit of sugar over 3 of the muffins (the three on the left in the picture above) before they went into the oven.

After they came out, they looked like this


The exterior is crusty, the inside is dense and just dry enough to justify slathering on some butter!

Ingredients (dry)
303 g All purpose Flour
10 g baking powder
6 g baking soda
pinch of kosher salt

Ingredients (wet)
105 g sugar
1/2 cup vegetable oil
1 egg + 1 egg yolk
1 cup plain yogurt

1 cup chocolate chips

Monday, September 12, 2011

Meat and Potatoes

I wanted to try something new this past weekend.  I'd never made a wine reduction sauce, so I thought I'd give it a whirl.  What is a red wine reduction sauce good for?  Steak!  But you can't just serve a chunk of steak for dinner (our low carb days are long past).  Steak and potatoes became the order of the day.

I decided on a potato gratin to accompany the steak, and grill-roasted zucchini and yellow squash to go along side.

I sliced the potatoes thin on a mandoline.

I am the first person ever to make that joke.





I sliced about 3 lbs of potatoes.  They went into a pot with cream, garlic, salt, pepper and just a touch of nutmeg.



I put that on the stove top to heat up and in the mean time, grated a cup of Emmentaler cheese.  Emmentaler is a cheese from switzerland, but a bit stronger than the usual 'Swiss Cheese' we're used to.  When the cream started to boil I poured everything out of the pot and into a 13X9 baking dish, then topped with the cheese.
Into the oven at 400 degrees Fahrenheit for about 35-40 minutes.

While that was in the oven, I tossed a bunch of aromatics into the pot (well, I washed and dried it first).  Garlic, onions, shallots, carrots, a tomato and some crimimi mushrooms.

They cooked until softened, and then I added a cup and a half of beef stock and a cup of merlot.

All of this reduced in the pot for about 20 minutes.  Then I strained the liquid into a smaller sauce pan, added another cup of wine, and reduced it again.  After it was reduced to about 1 cup in volume, I took it off the heat and whisked in about 2 tablespoons of butter, to thicken the sauce and give it a smooth texture. 

In the mean time, the steak got some salt and pepper on it.  The steak had been sitting out during all of the other prep work to come up to room temperature.  This is important, because it was a pretty thick steak, and by getting the whole thing up to room temperature first, we can get the center of the steak at a safe temperature (160 degrees F at minimum) without charring the heck out of the outside.


The steak went onto the grill.  3 minutes on side A, then 3 minutes on side B.  3 more minutes back on side A to create the hashmark grill pattern.   During that time the gratin came out of the oven.
It had to rest for 15 minutes or so to allow the sauce to thicken.

Then the steak came off the grill.  It also had to rest to allow the juices in the meat to redistribute.  When the meat is on the fire, all of the liquids get as far away from the heat as possible, which is the center of the cut.  By resting the steak, the whole cut equalizes in temperature, and the liquid redistributes throughout the meat as well.


Earlier in the day, I'd made a compound butter out of butter and chives.  Just mix them up, roll into a cylinder in plastic wrap and refrigerate.

The meat got sliced thin, a slice of the herb butter on it, and then some of the red wine sauce.  The gratin was simply sliced and put on the plate.  Served along side some roasted squash and onions and some caramelized onions and mushrooms, it looks something like this:


For the Steak
Steak
Salt
Pepper

For the Gratin
3 lbs Yukon Gold potatoes
3 cups cream
1 tsp salt
1/4 tsp pepper
dash nutmeg

For the Sauce
 2 cups red wine
1.5 cups beef stock
1 lb carrots, chopped
1 onion, chopped
2 large shallots, chopped
3 cloves of garlic, minced
1/2 pound chopped crimimi mushrooms